Chattanooga to Hales Bar, TN

It was a day full of curiosities as we started downriver. Starting with a rare sighting of an Oscar Mayer Weinermobile in downtown Chattanooga, complete with Wisconsin license plates!

Next was this volleyball net in the water in the middle of the Tennessee Gorge. We were in 30 feet of water about 30 yards away, and could only assume that there was a sandbar there where folks could stand.

The mass of concrete below is part of the Tennessee Valley Authority’s largest and most unique hydroelectric facility, the Raccoon Mountain Reservoir Plant. Working like an enormous storage battery, water is pumped from here to fill a reservoir on the top of the mountain when electrical demand is low. When demand is higher, water is released from the reservoir and travels through a tunnel drilled through the center of the mountain to drive hydroelectric generators in an underground power plant.

Lastly, this other massive structure is the historic Hales Bar Dam Powerhouse. Completed in 1913 and one of few privately-built hydroelectric projects, the dam was plagued with chronic leaks. The TVA assumed control in 1939 and spent more than two decades trying to repair the leaks before giving up and removing the dam after the Nickajack Lock was opened in 1965. The powerhouse is now used mainly for storage for the nearby Hales Bar Resort and Marina, where we’re spending tonight. It is also home to a small whisky distillery and a seasonal haunted house, which we will not be visiting. 

The river was busy with pleasure craft on a beautiful 80-degree Sunday, and the Gorge was even prettier with the sun out. The weather is forecast to turn sharply lower this week, as a cold front crosses much of the country.

Chattanooga, Day 3

We set our alarm clocks again today, but not for an early underway. Today was the ChattaJack 31, a kayak/canoe/paddleboard endurance race that goes 31 miles from downtown Chattanooga through the Tennessee Gorge to Hales Bar, just upriver from Nickajack Lock & Dam. Here’s the view last night, with all of the boats staged on the riverfront.

The start of the race went right past our dock, in two heats, with everything from solo kayaks and stand-up paddlebaords to six-person outrigger canoes and dragon-type boats. 

Many of you know how different Kathleen and I are, and watching the race together was a perfect example of our contrasting personalities. While we both found it thrilling to see the racers pass by, I was thinking that we were witnessing yet another flavor of crazy, while Kathleen was trying to decide which type of watercraft she would compete in!

This afternoon was spent on our bikes, and we logged 23 miles on the Tennessee Riverwalk, a beautiful paved trail that passes industrial, historical and artistic sections of the city, mostly along the waterfront, all the way to Chickamauga Lock & Dam. We only took one picture, this public art sculpture.

Dinner tonight was at Thai Smile Restaurant in downtown Chattanooga. We’ve adopted a dining practice from Chris and Kathy on the MacGregor 26x we met in Dubuque—order two entrees, eat half of each and have leftovers for another night. We try to bring containers to minimize the use of throwaway take-out boxes, but don’t always remember :(  

Tomorrow we’re leaving Chattanooga and heading back downriver.

Chattanooga, TN

We spent most of today ashore sightseeing in Chattanooga. Our first stop was the Tennessee Aquarium, an amazing, two-building display of fish, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and even butterflies. The focus is primarily on local and regional ecosystems, but there are many exhibits highlighting the extensive work the aquarium is doing to preserve and restore endangered aquatic life globally. My two favorite pics: A master of camouflage, the mossy frog is native to Southeast Asia and looks like a clump of moss, even up close. And Stella the Seahorse, a sculpture made up entirely of plastic trash recovered from our waterways. 

After the aquarium (and lunch), we hopped on the city’s free electric shuttle bus to the restored depot of the Chattanooga Choo Choo. The depot is original, the train is not, and we were underwhelmed, although the site is being renovated and expanded, and has potential. The famous nickname was given to an 1880s steam locomotive that ran from Cincinnati to Chattanooga. The famous song was written for the 1941 musical, Sun Valley Serenade and was performed by Glenn Miller—it quickly became the #1 tune in America.

Next we got back on the shuttle and went to Lookout Mountain to ride the Incline Railway up to the top. The Incline, as it’s known, has been in operation for more than 125 years. The counterbalanced ascending and descending cars (called a funicular) ride a one-mile track up 1,450 feet with a variable grade that maxes out at 72.7% near the top, one of the world’s steepest. The views of Chattanooga, the Tennessee River Valley and the Cumberland Plateau are magnificent. Also at the top is a National Military Park describing the importance of this strategic high ground during the Civil War, and how it ultimately fell to Union control in “The Battle Above The Clouds.”

We had dinner at Agave & Rye Tequila and Bourbon Hall near the waterfront, which is gearing up for two consecutive weekends of racing events on the river. When we returned to Dragonfly, the Southern Belle, Chattanooga’s local riverboat, was coming back from her nightly dinner cruise in the fading light. 

Back To Tennessee

Our second day at Goose Pond Colony was spent on the resort grounds. We took our folding bikes out on a pretty wooded trail through the property, then did laundry, read, and played music, before a sunset dinner at The Docks, the marina’s restaurant. Four more boats pulled in, so the transient docks were busy after having them to ourselves the day before.

This section of Lake Guntersville is plagued with hydrilla, an invasive weed that growths thick enough to stop a boat and is difficult to eradicate. The entrance to the marina must be regularly “mowed” to keep a safe channel open. Their equipment looks very similar to the marine weed whackers that are used in Minnesota to control milfoil.

Wednesday was another alarm-clock morning, as we had a long day planned and a lock to pass through. After 48 miles, and a smooth 40-foot lift in Nickajack Lock, we tied up to yet another lovely free dock, this one at Shellmound Campground, near Jasper, TN. We grilled dinner and strolled around the park, which was occupied mostly by RVers, who had decorated their campsites for Halloween.

After a week in Alabama, we’re back in Tennessee, and are also briefly in the Eastern Time zone. Today’s 38 miles to Chattanooga was on a very curvy section of the river, and we traveled in every compass direction to make our way east. 

The Tennessee River has blown us away with its natural beauty, and it got even better today as we passed through the Tennessee Gorge, a 26-mile stretch of stunning scenery as the river meanders through the Cumberland Mountains.

We arrived in Chattanooga late in the afternoon, filled our gas tanks and docked at Erwin Marina on the downtown waterfront. Our plan is to spend three nights here and explore the city, starting with an after-dinner trip to Ben & Jerry’s.

Bonus points to those who recognized that the title of this post is also the name of a 2009 country rock song by Billy Ray Cyrus.

Guntersville to Scottsboro, AL

We really enjoyed our time at the Guntersville City Harbor, but the wind shifted overnight and gave us a rolly night at the dock, which greatly disturbed our beauty rest. All was right with the world, however, once the sun came up and we confirmed that the local heron was still keeping watch over us. 

We went to breakfast at Another Broken Egg, just 84 steps from the boat (I counted), and had a couple of delicious omelettes, with fresh fruit, potatoes and english muffins. Then it was back out on Guntersville Lake in beautiful sunshine and light winds for 21 miles to Goose Pond Colony Marina in Scottsboro, AL. Once again, we are the only transient boaters at the dock, but we never get lonely, and can play our musical instruments without disturbing others. 

Scottsboro fun fact: It is home to the Unclaimed Baggage Center, a 50,000 square-foot store and America’s only retailer of lost airline luggage. The store attracts more than one million shoppers annually and reportedly adds 7,000 new items every day.

We are in Northeast Alabama, about 30 miles south of Tennessee and 30 miles west of Georgia, and are starting to see some fall colors. 

We’ve decided to spend two nights at Goose Pond Colony. It’s another resort-style marina with a full list of amenities and amazing customer service, so we’ve modified our schedule to take a break, buy groceries, get out on our bikes and maybe buy some lost luggage.

During our after-dinner walk this evening, we saw this armadillo feeding next to the road.

Ditto Landing to Guntersville, AL

We’re on the move—there is a nice stretch of good weather, and we have a bit of a schedule to keep—something of a no-no when cruising. We plan to spend next weekend in Chattanooga, then head back down the Tennessee River to a Great Loop cruiser’s convention in Rogersville, AL the first week of November. We’re on track so far and have shorter travel days planned in case the weather doesn’t cooperate. We traveled 24 miles today, well below our average of 35. The last section of Wheeler Lake was incredibly beautiful, and we are beginning to catch glimpses of the southern Appalachian Mountains.

This ominous sign greeted us as we approached Guntersville Lock & Dam. We didn’t see any danger, and the 48-foot lift was actually one of the gentler lock-throughs that we’ve had.

We saw two UFOs (unidentified floating objects) today. The first was drifting in our slip at Ditto Landing Marina. The second was a moored platform, just outside the river channel.  We’ve seen several of these on the Tennessee, but still don’t know what they’re for.

Guntersville Lake—the largest in Alabama—is another gem in the TVA lineup, and Guntersville has made major investments to attract boaters. We’re at the City Harbor, a very nice free marina surrounded by restaurants, shops and a small hotel. There are no water, electricity, showers or laundry facilities, but we don’t need those at every stop. 

Fun facts about Guntersville: It was founded by John Gunter, a salt mine owner and the great-grandfather of American humorist Will Rogers; it is located at the southernmost point on the Tennessee River, and; it was the last place where singer Ricky Nelson performed. His private plane crashed in Texas on New Year’s Eve, 1985, after departing Guntersville. 

This cute Halloween decoration is outside the brew pub where we ate dinner. If you didn’t already know, Kathleen is a huge Minions fan!

Decatur to Huntsville, AL

Today we awoke to a man issuing instructions with a bullhorn, accompanied by the rumble of outboard engines. We quickly determined that we’d stumbled upon another fishing tournament, which started at 6:30 AM from our harbor. We both had a good night’s sleep, and had hoped to get an early start anyway to avoid gusty afternoon winds. The three dozen or so departing fishing boats were quiet and respectful and we saw them all morning scattered about Wheeler Lake. For some reason, this group was far less aggressive when passing us in open water than the guys we saw two days ago on Pickwick Lake. 

The Decatur waterfront is very industrial, and we smelled this notable factory well before we saw it.

The weather was lovely for our 30-mile run to Huntsville, AL, and the temperature quickly went from a low of 47F to a high of 82F, with light winds that grew as forecast, although we were off the water before they could rock our boat. Tonight we’re staying at Ditto Landing Marina, a beautiful county facility that was named after James Ditto, a pioneer who began operating a ferry across the river in 1807. A replica of Ditto’s ferry is docked at the marina.

We had most of the afternoon to exercise, do chores and soak up the sun. After a loaded potato skin dinner from the toaster oven, we took a sunset stroll on the nearby River Greenway path

Iuka, MS to Decatur, AL

Yesterday we left J.P. Coleman State Park in light rain, which quickly ended once we got underway. Prior to our departure, Jay and Peggy from Sunshine stopped by to say Hi. They are finishing up their Loop and are the second couple in as many weeks to introduce themselves and report that they used to own a MacGregor. 

We spent the entire day on Pickwick Lake, which got a little choppy in the afternoon, and was exacerbated by repeated high-speed, close-range encounters with fishing boats. We thought that they were just rude here, but later learned that there was a fishing tournament going on, which may partially excuse the discourteous boating. We spent last night at Florence Harbor Marina in Florence, AL, after a 36-mile day. Dinner was at the marina’s River Bottom Grille and it was warm enough to eat outside on their deck overlooking the harbor entrance. Across the river is Sheffield, AL, home of the Muscle Shoals Sound Studios and FAME Studios and nearby Tuscumbia, AL, birthplace of Helen Keller.

This morning was one of the few days we’ve set an alarm clock—an early wake-up was necessary to get in the queue to transit the Wilson Lock. We left our slip just before dawn, wiggled through the tournament fisherman launching at the boat ramp, and arrived at the lock at first light. We survived the wild ride up 94 feet from Pickwick Lake to Wilson Lake, the highest single-lift lock east of the Rocky Mountains. Kathleen got her morning workout fending the boat off the lock wall as the fast-moving water tried to drive our bow into the concrete. 

Fifteen miles later, we were at Wheeler Lock, but the timing was unfortunate as a large tow was splitting its barges into two halves, as is common. We waited 2.5 hours in a building chop until it was our turn, then went up another 48 feet. Why are these locks and dams so tall? One reason is that the Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) dams are hydroelectric power generators and a high water drop is beneficial. The other purpose is for safe navigation. Before the TVA, the 650-mile Tennessee River was rarely navigable end to end, due to obstructions such as Muscle Shoals, a 35-mile stretch of waterfalls, rapids, reefs, sandbars, islands and other hazards, which are now deep under water.

The wind kept building this afternoon and kicked up some nice rollers on Wheeler Lake. Fortunately they were on our stern and we rode the fair winds and following seas 41 miles to Decatur, AL, where we docked at the Ingalls Harbor municipal dock, former home of a shipyard and current home to some public dragonfly art.

Shiloh and Pickwick

We woke up again to cold and fog, which again quickly morphed into a gorgeous autumn day, with sunshine and highs in the lower 70s. The other Dragonfly departed our anchorage first, then we pulled up our anchors and got underway about 9:15 AM. Our stern anchor hooked a couple of nice-sized freshwater mussels, but they slipped back into the river before I could get a picture.

At Mile 198 on the Tennessee River, we passed Pittsburg Landing, the site of Ulysses S. Grant’s April 1862 encampment. Grant was caught off-guard by Albert Sydney Johnston’s Confederates and the ensuing two-day battle of Shiloh was one of the bloodiest conflicts of the Civil War. More than 110,000 soldiers from both sides fought here, with more than 23,000 casualties. Grant turned the tide and won the field, and Johnston was killed, both major blows to the Confederate Army. 

After 180 miles, our cruise on Kentucky Lake came to an end today, when we passed through Pickwick Lock. The lock got its name from the nearby town of Pickwick, TN, which was named by an antebellum postmaster, after his favorite Charles Dickens novel, The Pickwick Papers. We went up 57 feet from Kentucky Lake to Pickwick Lake, and the incredibly friendly and helpful Lockmaster took pictures of us and posted them on Facebook. Here’s the sequence:

Approaching the lock (we took this one)

Entering the lock

Secured to a floating bollard, at the far end of the left wall

Before filling

After filling

Departing

Once on Pickwick Lake, we went past the entrance to the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, our eventual route to the Gulf of Mexico, in order to continue up the Tennessee River for another 250 miles to Chattanooga. We are spending tonight at J.P. Coleman State Park Marina in Iuka, MS, before heading to Florence, AL tomorrow, then snaking back into Tennessee. Fun fact: Pickwick is one of only a handful of U.S. lakes that are in three different states. 

The Tennessee River Runs Low

Greetings from our anchorage at Diamond Island on the Tennessee River.  KG here - I’m enjoying the fact that we’re spending a long time on the Tennessee River mostly because when I come on watch I play one of my favorite songs from the band The Secret Sisters (The Tennessee River Runs Low) through the portable speaker in the cockpit and sing along at full volume.  If you’re not familiar with this excellent duo, I suggest you check them out ASAP.  They sing a wide array of styles and they have KILLER tight harmonies.  Here’s a Spotify link to the song. The Secret Sisters Song

As Tony suggested in his last post, we have been having some chilly nights.  This morning dawned at the expected 44 degrees but also very foggy as you can see here.

Since we’ve left the Mississippi, we no longer have the luxury of river walks to run on, and instead I’m often running opposite traffic alongside country roads so I chose to wait until the fog cleared for my morning run.  Here is the harbor an hour after the previous picture was taken with clear visibility.

This area of the country has lots of rolling hills which makes for some challenging runs.  Today I ran along an airport and the Ross Creek Landing Golf Course (apparently a Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course) that was very scenic.  I enjoyed these cacti all along the golf course road, and even got my usual morning run bridge picture at the course.

Because the fog didn’t burn off till 9AM we didn’t get underway until 11 AM which is a very late start.  Luckily our plan was to only travel 35 miles and anchor which we had time for.  The river is a bit narrower, we’ve had much closer passings with the tows, but the sandy shores are really beautiful and we have been having fun checking out the palatial vacation homes on various parts of the river as you can see here.  

We did see one for sale near Saltillo, TN in case anyone is looking.

It was a fairly uneventful drive today with our enclosure up again.  We’re hoping the weather is warmer and we can get back to our open air cockpit tomorrow.  As I said above, we are anchored at Diamond Island which is beautiful and we are enjoying the sounds of a very chatty owl.  We are very close to the Tennessee-Mississippi boarder which we plan to cross tomorrow, though we will follow the river back to Tennessee since we’re planning to visit Chattanooga in a little over a week.  Funnily enough, about 30 minutes after we finished anchoring, another “Looper” showed up to share the anchorage on a boat named Dragonfly.  So far we’ve found 3 boats currently doing the Great Loop named Dragonfly including us.