Tuesday, December 12, 2023

Last of the River Locks

Greetings and salutations from our anchorage on the Tombigbee/Black Warrior River.  The closest town to our location is Sunflower, AL.  We are continuing through what I’m sure we will remember as the Frigid Leg of the Loop.  We are once again at anchor because there are no more marinas on the river between Demopolis, AL where we spent the weekend and Mobile Bay.  

We started our day earlier than I would have like given the overnight temperatures.  Because we were anchored with our buddy boats in a narrow creek, we had to all leave in the reverse order of anchoring so that we weren’t blocking anyone from leaving.  That meant pulling apart a frozen cleat hitch on the bow anchor line and weighing anchor in below freezing temps with frost on the deck.  DA lesson learned: Don’t leave your anchoring gloves outside on the lifeline overnight to dry when it is going to be below freezing: 1. they will not dry and 2. you will instantly freeze your fingertips when you attempt to bend your fingers to use said gloves. 

On a brighter note,  I had just finished my “Mood Ring” neck cowl and that was significantly warmer than the buffs I’ve been wearing on my neck - here is a picture of me sporting my cowl while in the process of putting on all of my layers.

We started out driving at our fast (for us) cruising speed because we needed to refuel at the last stop for gas before Mobile and so wanted to gas up and still be able to go through the next lock with our fellow sailboats who we’ve been traveling with over the past few days.  It turned out that we needn’t have hurried as the lock was having minor mechanical issues and so we ended up waiting for around 45 minutes for the lock to open, definitely not our longest wait.  What was unique about this wait was that one of our fellow boats anchored next to the lock and then we rafted up to each other to wait together.  This was significantly more fun than all of our long waits we’ve done alone, especially since one of the boats had two dogs and the other had a very friendly and curious cat.


We locked down the Coffeeville Lock today at noon and with that, passed through the last of the locks on the Rivers portion of the Great Loop.  Thus far we have gone through 49 locks and don’t expect to go through another one until the Dismal Swamp in Virginia.  Transiting locks is not difficult, but, because it is not predictable when a boat will be held up at a lock, it isn’t always predictable how far you can get with the available daylight.  This was a concern today since we needed all of the time the sun was up to get to our anchorage this evening.  


This river is in what seems to be an uninhabited part of Alabama - uninhabited by humans but with far more egrets than we’ve seen thus far.  The banks are very sandy and even though the trees are mostly bare, the expanse of wilderness on both sides of the river is very beautiful.



Because we had to wait at the lock today, we ended up reaching our anchorage at the end of twilight, which we try very hard to avoid.  We knew that one of our “buddy boats” would be there which made us a little more comfortable when we were determining where to place our anchor.  There really aren’t any places to pull off the river here, we just try to get out of the channel and as far away from where to tows transit all night long and hope they’re keeping an eye out for our anchor lights. 

We were treated to a beautiful sunset as we were motoring there, 



though I was grateful that Tony suggested I wear a head lamp when I went to the bow to set the anchor since it was pitch black by the time I was done securing the anchor for the night.  

Here's a picture of the first tow to come by in the dark!



We are settled in for the night. The propane heater Little Buddy is drying the anchoring gloves and keeping the cabin warm until we shut it off for sleeping.  Here’s hoping we are able to wait until it is at least 40 degrees before we weigh anchor in the morning. 

Monday, December 11, 2023

Up A Creek

We were both sound asleep at 4:30 AM when the alarm went off. Our electric cabin heater was barely keeping up with the 33F outside temperatures as we got dressed and prepared Dragonfly for an early departure. We left in the dark with four other boats staying at Kingfisher Bay Marina (three of them from Saturday’s game night). Our first stop was Demopolis Lock, three miles downriver, and their preferred lockage times for pleasure craft are 6:00 AM and 8:00 AM. We chose the earlier time because we had a long way to go to our destination. This would be our fourth 70-mile travel day on our Loop, today necessitated by a shortage of decent anchorages on this stretch of waterway. Our goal was to get to Bashi Creek, one of the few off-river places to spend the night out of harm’s way from late-night tow boats. Dawn was breaking as we waited for a tug to lock through, then the five of us dropped 40 feet into the Coffeeville Pool, our last dammed-up section of water before reaching sea level. While going down, a small congregation of white egrets caught fish like crazy inside the lock as the water level fell. As we exited, fog descended upon us and put up a fight before yielding to the rising sun about an hour later. 



Today we weren’t the slowest boat in our group—that (dis)honor went to the two traditional sailboats in our flotilla, both crewed by couples under age 30. We arrived at Bashi Creek after a 10-hour day and were safely anchored, bow and stern, in 9 feet of water in the narrow creek before sundown. One of the sailboats arrived at dusk and the other well after dark. Tonight’s low is going to be 30F, and our Little Buddy heater is keeping us cozy this evening and we have a new comforter from the Demopolis Walmart to help keep warm tonight.

Fun fact: Today we crossed the 32nd parallel, above which many marine insurers consider safe from tropical hurricanes. We’re going the other way…





Saturday, December 9, 2023

Demopolis, AL

We are having a lovely warmup, with an overnight low of 57F last night and a high of 78F today. The rain we’re expecting won’t arrive until tonight, now, so we were able to take a long walk around the marina, boat yard, RV park and surrounding grounds, then borrowed the courtesy van to provision in town. The marina is all decorated for the holidays, and hosts an annual Christmas on the River lighted water parade, which we missed by a week. The marina is also home to my friend Perry Phillips’ 40-foot sailing catamaran, Sun Spirit. I’ve done two offshore deliveries aboard Sun Spirit: from St. Thomas, USVI, to Mobile, AL, and Mobile to Miami, and have very fond memories of those voyages.



Demopolis (population 7,100) means “People’s City” in Greek. It was founded in the early 1800s by French loyalists to Napoleon who were exiled when Bonaparte abdicated. The French settlers believed that the climate was perfect for growing grapes and olives—it wasn’t, but cotton flourished and the location at the junction of the Tombigbee and Black Warrior Rivers made it a logical place to live and do business in the 19th century. The shift away from river transportation, boll weevil infestations in the 1920s and the Great Depression put an end to growth and Demopolis today seems to be another struggling river town that we’ve unfortunately seen too many of.

This evening we connected with the crews of five other Looper boats for a spirited game of Balderdash on the upper deck of the beautiful boaters’ lounge. Then Kathleen and I watched Love Story aboard Dragonfly, in memory of the late Ryan O’Neal.

Friday, December 8, 2023

The River Section

We spent another cold night onboard Dragonfly at anchor. Our Little Buddy propane heater does a nice job of taking the chill off and is very safe, but we don’t sleep with it on. Today’s sunrise cabin temp was 42F, and getting out of bed was tough. Our anchor held particularly well in the river current, and we found out why when we went to retrieve it. Once again our anchor line was fouled around something big on the bottom, and it took a good 30 minutes of  pulling from several directions with the outboard and the two of us to free it. We were grateful to save our anchor from the river’s clutches again, and the exertion was a quick way to warm up.

We’re on The River Section, the third portion of the Tenn-Tom Waterway (Bonus Question for our regular readers: What are the other two sections? Answer at end of post). We are now following the natural, winding path of the Tombigbee River (see first pic), except where the Army Corps of Engineers deemed it too curvy and shortened the route with cutoffs. There are about 20 such cutoffs over more than 150 miles, which reduced the total distance of the waterway by almost 30 miles. The longest of these oxbows that were cut off is Rattlesnake Bend, which we passed today (see second pic—the green line at the 14:36 time stamp is the cutoff; the blue line is the original river).



Because we’re on a natural river, the scenery is much nicer, including the White Cliffs of Epes, a one-mile stretch of stunning, 80-foot chalk-white bluffs.



We traveled 49 miles today to Kingfisher Bay Marina in Demopolis, AL, where the Black Warrior River joins the Tombigbee for the final 216 miles to Mobile Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. We’re spending the weekend in port due to a wet forecast, then hope to get to Mobile next weekend. 

Bonus Question Answer: The Divide Cut (full credit if you answered “The Ditch”) and The Canal Section are the other portions of the Tenn-Tom Waterway.

Thursday, December 7, 2023

Series in Blue and White

Greetings to all of you from Alabama - yes we are once again in Alabama.  We left the state of Mississippi today after locking down the Tom Bevill Lock first thing this morning but before locking down the Howell Heflin lock around 1 PM.  We are currently anchored in a lovely Oxbow on the Tombigbee River with three other boats and will head to Demopolis, AL tomorrow.  We will take a break from travel over the weekend and provision the boat since it will be only anchorages in the final push to Mobile (~220 miles).  We are eager to get to Mobile and points south because the weather has been mighty chilly.  

Today we woke up to fog for the first time in a while so thankfully (in my opinion) we couldn’t leave at 6AM which had been our original plan.


However, we did break our rule about not moving if the temperature is below 40 degrees today because we were traveling with two other boats through the locks and it had only warmed up to 35 degrees by the time the group left.  I had the first watch on the helm and was wearing almost all of the warm gear I brought with me.  I LOVE Smartwool!

Thankfully, it was in the upper 50’s by the time we stopped and I was able to practice my fiddle in cabin after we were snug at anchor as I haven’t touched my fiddle since we left for the BVI and was having a bit of withdrawal.

 

The hobby I did enjoy while sailing the islands was knitting.  I had a load of blue and white yarn which I’ve been using for a few projects.  The first I started prior to the Loop - it was a Norwegian sweater that I made for my twin brother as a result of losing a bet.  

I had much of it done and put together prior to Labor Day but it took till the end of October to complete since I found I wasn’t just sitting around looking for things to do as we were driving down the river.  After the sweater was done I decided to make a Christmas stocking for him since I the yarn. was still getting in my way.  Unlike the usual stockings I am known for, I decided to make his match the patterns in the newly completed sweater and shipped that off to him prior to Thanksgiving.

And yet, I still had more yarn taking up space on the boat so I decided to make mini stockings for Tony and myself to hang in the boat above our mini Christmas tree (since we didn’t bring along our home stockings).  These I made on my trip to the BVI and finished just as our charter ended.

It is comical how much bigger they are than the tree, but Unfortunately my full name is too long to fit around the top of the stocking.  Second unfortunate item - they are too small for me to wear because they would have been super toasty this morning on the frosty dock.


That's all for now.  Going to enjoy the propane heater until its time to crawl into the rack.  Enjoy your central heating!!

Wednesday, December 6, 2023

Back at it: Columbus, MS to Pickensville, AL

We returned to Dragonfly at 10:30 PM last night after a wonderful week in the British Virgin Islands, then woke up today to temperatures in the 30s, 40 degrees colder than the day before in the Caribbean.


Our original idea was to spend today provisioning, planning and getting Dragonfly ready to finish the 335 remaining miles on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. The day was chilly, but sunny and settled, and while Kathleen was at the marina office reserving the courtesy van, she ran into the crew of Sea Cottage, who we had met briefly at the AGLCA Fall Rendevous. They were leaving at midday after finishing their to-do list, and we felt that the universe was sending us a signal—we had good weather and a buddy boat and decided to get underway with them. Kathleen and Malinda went to the grocery store, while Keith and I got our respective boats ready for departure. We got right through Stennis Lock, where we were joined by Rooster, a non-Looping trawler that just happened to arrive while we were entering the channel to the lock. Malinda took this picture of Dragonfly in the lock:


After dropping 27 feet in the lock, we motored 27 miles to Pickensville, AL, where our three-boat squadron is spending the night, with Sea Cottage at anchor and Rooster and Dragonfly tied to a free dock at the Pickensville Recreation Area, a nice-but-neglected park with boat launch, beach, picnic area and trails. Kathleen and I took a sunset walk and saw this curious sign near the boat ramp:





BVI—Day 7

These are not all from our last day in the islands, nor in chronological order.


The crew of Iles Et Ailes (L-R): Dale Feddersen, Rachel Feddersen, Tony Green, Katy Bede, John McSherry, Kathleen Green, Sue McSherry-Jones, John Bede

Limin’ in the rear cockpit

We had to find somewhere else…

Last dinner together at Cooper Island Beach Club

Drinks at the Willy T, Norman Island

Nighttime in The Bight, Norman Island

Paradise Club, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola

The Dinghy Captain




Road (and Water) Trip: Michigan

Kathleen was competing in a rowing regatta, specifically the USRowing Masters National Championships in Ypsilanti, MI, and I decided to tag ...